I would just look up the newer tech and send a list out to Xet and a couple people to check it over. Why make a new thread? I only said I thought it should be updated.
God damn.
Printable View
I've looked up a few benchmarks; what I gathered from them suggested the 5770 has performance more along the lines of a GTX 260 than the GTS 250. In any case, I'd still be getting DirectX11 and as I've noted I'd love to upgrade to that plus a Phenom II quad core. You do make a good point, though... the GTS 250 is still a pretty good GPU and I don't really need to spend the money at this point. Doesn't stop me from wanting newer stuff though, eh? ;)
GTS250 has similar performance to an HD4850. The HD5770 is closer to an HD4870. The HD5830 performs like an HD4890, and the HD5870 performs almost as well as an HD4870 X2...
Here I will save you some trouble by copy/pasting the SH/SC System Building megathread hth!Quote:
Originally Posted by Amit
Quote:
Originally Posted by SH/SC
Quote:
Originally Posted by SH/SC
No, but to make them run at full potential yes. If you aren't capable of overclocking, don't bother building a computer.
May satan rain hot acid down your throat and make you swallow a match.Quote:
EDIT: Dont like the reviews on Asus Boards either.
edit: Dylan Mclovin: hey plasbian thanks for makin ohioans look dumber than 10 boxes of hair and freelancer ok
HAHAHAHAHA
Dude, all of the best i7 X58 boards are made by ASUS. It's either what you've got or ASUS...
I found this crazy newegg deal for $432: http://www.newegg.ca/Product/ComboBu...t=Combo.343621
The components seemed to be very well rated. I might go for that since I'm not really looking for an i5. Although, I'm not sure if the i3-530 will bottleneck my HD 5750, though. That is my main concern. I want something I can take with me to university and I'm certainly not carrying my main rig.
Seconding the inclusion of EVGA in "good stuff" list.
A computer I built earlier this year was with an ASUS board, though. They're fine from what little experience I have with them. :shrug:
couldnt resist
http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/9863/76555618.jpg
yes, buy new ones
Basing my statement purely on a "number of reviews to number of eggs" ratio. ASUS took all the top spots, had to scroll down to get to eVGA. But I digress, eVGA makes some good spec boards as well.
Personally, I like DFI. BIOS with many options would see a lot of use by me if I had one.
New build:
Mobo: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813131614
Graphics: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16814150456
Power Supply: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817176002
Processor: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16819115225
RAM: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820145224
I think this will all work together. Someone confirm this. Thoughts / criticism please.
Looks good to me. I'd rather have the 2GB Eyefinity HD5870, but the benches show that only nets you a few extra frames per second. 850W seems slightly low if you intend to add another HD5870 later. I like to have a large power safety net, even though PSUs are more efficient closer to their peak load. But then again, I don't pay the bills either.
Good RAM is good.
well, not really building a computer but i'm moving to pharmacy school this coming fall and i am in need of a good laptop
budget is around 1200 dollars
it's got to be able to handle modern games (bf:bc2 and eve online mainly) on a decent resolution
i was looking at this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16834220700
my old 6600gt could run eve-o at max settings bro
don't get a toshiba
e: go with asus, msi, sager or gateway
e2: unless you're getting a really sweet deal
e3: http://www.notebookcheck.net/ http://www.notebookcheck.net/Mobile-...ist.844.0.html
e4: http://www.xoticpc.com/
ASUS G73 is currently king of bang-for-buck gaming notebooks, followed by the ASUS G51. Absolute power goes to the Alienware M17x though; dual GTX285s or HD4870s (with GDDR5 this time, not not GDDR3 like the ASUS WP90 had). The Clevo M980 comes close, but the motherboard chipset introduces some performance loss.
Also, don't get Toshiba. They suck.
G73 and the M17x are past the budget :<
i guess i'll be going with the G51
it's a little smaller than the G73 which i'm guessing is a little plus because i'll be hauling it around in my backpack
also no dx11 support on the G51 but i can live with that probably
There are also the MSI offerings to consider which are lower in price than the ASUS for comparable performance if you must have DX11. I think the ASUS notebooks are higher quality, though, and offer more features for the dollar.
v0v
20 days to decide :D
also, what would be the best way to avoid bloatware? if it were xp i'd just do a fresh install but it isn't and i don't have windows 7 on me :(
or does asus even come with bloatware
Uninstall any trial software and bloatware :-3 It's at most 15 minutes to remove that crap when you first turn it on.
If you have your Win7 key, you may as well download it from somewhere (check the md5 first, lolbotnets) and just use your key.
Either way, Kyon is correct.
Use Revo Uninstaller, that will get rid of all the programs you don't want and the registry stuff they leave behind, then use CCleaner to get anything left behind.
The Alienware M11x is a pretty good deal for gaming laptops (very portable too). My roommate bought one and it hasn't disappointed him, its specs are not the best but you can't complain when you're getting a GT335M card in an 11 inch package. The lack of a DVD drive may be a problem but nowadays you can buy games off Steam and if you want to install disc-based games you can share another computer's DVD drive over a LAN and then use a fixed EXE to bypass the need for a disc. Or just buy an external USB dvd drive.
If the alienware is too small, the ASUS G51 is one of the best deals and its 15.6" screen should be adequate. Also get a 9 cell battery if you plan on using the laptop away from a wall outlet on a regular basis, because a GTX 260M is a power hog. Other laptops like the Alienware M11x have the advantage of secondary integrated graphics that you can switch to to save battery/reduce heat when you aren't gaming.
the asus g51 looks really good right now
does just uninstalling the crapware leave annoying (im ocd in keeping the hdd clean :3) in windows 7? im still using xp right now :D
Friend of mine has an older model G51 from a year ago or so, didn't come with much crapware to start with and uninstalling it was fairly easy.
Since I don't have enough cash to finish my main computer, I wanted to update this old IBM NetVista PC. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to find anything that'd work for it since it's so old.
You think there's anything that I could get, new or used, that'd work for it?
It has:
Intel(R) Pentium(R) 4 CPU 2.00GHz
512mb of RAM
Intel(R) 82845G Graphics Controller (shitty shitty shit shit)
and an IBM Rev 1.2 mobo
Mainly I want to upgrade the memory and video card (or lack thereof), but if I can update anything else on this junker, that'd be great.
Personally I'd just save up some money for a newer budget rig. Not even worth upgrading...
On top of that, those motherboards are so old they don't have any graphics expansion capabilities.
How good are Foxconn motherboards?
I was looking at http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813186170
The reviews seem good, and I don't think i'll need more than 6gb ram for a while, and by the time I would prices for a new motherboard would be lower, or there would be new tech.
But how are ASRock motherboards?
I saw http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813157189, I'm looking for a crossfire mobo that is atx (not micro atx)
Any suggestions?
Both fine boards... flip a coin over it or somethin
I think i'll pick the ASRock board, it has more features, and more ram support.
You shouldn't be worried about 12GB vs 24GB of memory... Anything over 12GB will most likely be wasted until future generation hardware and software make use of it. I would personally by the Foxconn over the ASRock, I've heard better things about Foxconn in most areas.
How about this?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813188049
EVGA supremacy, I'm a huge fanboy. It also LOOKS the best, and we all know that looks are everything when it comes to computers!
It doesn't look like it has crossfire, and I plan to crossfire my 5850 with a second one eventually in the future, so I don't think that board is an option.
so
i got the asus g51j
and im loving it
awesome screen, faaaaaaaaaaaast shit no lag :D
Looking at powerful laptops right now, need something that will do primarily video editing/rendering, Photoshop work, HD video playback, and gaming. I don't need Bluray, because I personally think that Bluray in laptops is pretty pointless. 15" screen please, 17" is to big and I'd feel like a dork pulling it out in class/work, 11" is to small for my shitty eye sight. Backlighted keyboard is a must and a large battery capacity would be nice.
Looking at an Alienware M15x, because I think it's the only thing that's got all the power I need plus a backlighted keyboard?
Did my Googleing already, but thanks.
I have run into a wall, I'm fairly set on the Alienware because the price is actually decent however... The Canadian Alienware website has a few less options than the American one, my main concern is the processor selection. On the U.S. website I was able to select the i7 620M (2 cores + HT), on the Canadian website I have to go from the i5 540M (2 cores + HT) to the i7 720QM (4 cores + HT)... They don't have the 620M which is what I was really hoping to get, so do you think the i5 540M will do what I need it to, or should I get the i7 720QM because of my Adobe Premiere/After Effects/Photoshop CS5 needs?
Here are the price and complete specs of the processors btw:
Intel Core i5-540M 2.53GHz (3.06Ghz Turbo Mode, 3M cache) [add $100]
Intel Core i7-720QM 1.6GHz (2.8GHz Turbo Mode, 6MB Cache) [add $200]
And the rest of the laptop:
Windows 7 Professional 64bit OS
15.6-inch WideFHD 1920x1080 (1080p) WLED Screen
6GB DDR3 at 1066MHz Memory
500GB SATAII 7,200RPM Hard Drive
1GB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 260M Graphics Card
Slot-Load Dual Layer DVD Burner (DVD+-RW, CD-RW)
9-cell (85Watt) Lithium-Ion Battery
Spend the extra money on the i7. Slower clocks but double the cores & cache. It'll be worth it when you're cranking out videos.
So Coja and I agreed that the i5 would actually be a better bet, since most video editing will be done on appropriate workstations or my home PC. The only video editing on the laptop will be for quick edits, ideas, and mock ups.
Any other opinions? Most likely going to order today :)
get the asus g51 :v
although it is kind of big, it says 15.6" screen but if you include the bajeezus huge bezel it fits 17" slipcases snugly
http://www.modacity.net/forums/showthread.php?t=21456
Friend has a year or two year old G51, they're pretty nice but I really wanted some backlit keyboard going on!
mine has a backlit keyboard o_0
Must be a new optional extra since he ordered his...
The Orion backpack I ordered to go with my laptop has shipped, and apparently "left Vancouver" so I'll expect it in 3-4 days. Laptop itself is still "In Production".
E: Oh and I should probably add what I wanted to really ask in this post. Lots of reviews and such state that Alienware recommends using the laptop without a "laptop cooler", however I often find myself working with the laptop on my lap or on a non-ideal surface (such as a bed/couch/padded chair arm). We all know this isn't great for laptops since if they're sitting on such a surface there's no where for the hot air and radiant heat from the bottom of the laptop to go, so I'm looking for a low-profile cooler (that's large enough to sit under the M15x at: Width: 370mm and Height: 260mm) that doesn't angle the laptop very much. Mainly just looking for something that I can throw into the backpack beside the laptop and take out when I need it between the laptop and the surface it's going to be on. I don't need to have my legs fried while quickly browsing something online haha!
I'm looking at this Zalman cooler:
http://www.zalman.co.kr/ENG/product/...ad.asp?idx=394
It's not quite big enough but it should work, however I'd like something that's slightly larger than the stated dimensions. I would prefer coolers that run off the laptop USB ports, and provide a replacement USB port(s) for the one being used.
Hardcore QQing here. My girlfriend is an absolute money sink and saving money with her is like next to impossible.
http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/Pu...umber=10666914
That's my current build for my rig I wanna build this summer. Can anyone see any changes that can be made to save me some money but still have a kickass rig?
I'd go with the 5850 instead, and the 920 instead.
Why are you buying an 850W power supply there is no way you will need that much
The i7 and 1366 are overkill, go with a 1156 chip.
Link me what you guys are talking about. Remember, I am pretty damn dumb when it comes to selecting the parts D:
Dropping to an i7 920 will only save you $9, I don't know if that's worth it to you. If the 1156-pin socket weren't such a piece of crap I'd recommend dropping to that socket as well, but it's an evolutionary dead end with its dual-channel RAM limitation. It performs well enough for now, but I'd rather switch to AMD's socket AM3 than jump onto that bandwagon, even if the Core i5 outperforms the Phenom II X4.
Had someone put this together and said it would be a good build:
http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/Pu...umber=14744186
compared to my original build:
http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/Pu...umber=10666914
Thoughts and criticism?
The i7 and the HD5870 completely trash their counterparts in the AMD build. I would say wait for the 3.2GHz Black Box Thuban, but unless you do a lot of rendering or something, the $310 Thuban is unjustifiable since the i7 grants you better performance in games and in audio/video encoding/decoding. The HD5870 is also a huge step up over the GTX260 Core 216. If you want to save money, go with the HD5850, 5770, or GTX470.
The flip side is that the AM3 socket can be upgraded with any new AMD processor for the foreseeable future, requiring only a BIOS update and the appropriate TDP tolerances. A good compromise would be to take that AMD system as is, but remove the GTX260 give it an HD5850 or HD5870. You save money and maintain more than adequate gaming performance. Remember, most games are GPU-bound, not CPU.
I would suggest Intel over AMD on this one...
Same, but only if he sticks with LGA 1366. Better to have a powerful core system and be able to upgrade graphics than have something anemic all-around.
See? I fail at putting together systems D: someone get me a kickass yet cheap AMD build for +rep. Go go go D:
Click Here for List.
There were a shit ton of combo deals that could easily save you ~$100 when combined together. I went with the Phenom II X4 965 because A.) Thuban is nutty expensive for no gaming performance gain and B.) the X4 has awesome overclock potential with the 125W stepping. Granted, the Thuban black box also has awesome overclock potential, but it's still not going to be any better for games. For the GPU, the HD5850 and GTX470 were the same price, and the GTX470 performs better than the HD5850. You can always spend another $50-$70 to get the HD5870, which performs better than the GTX470. If you intend to do Crossfire, however, definitely go with the HD5850 so you can just drop another one in later. Also, the case you wanted for your i7 machine can be had in combo with the motherboard. Personally, I dig the red AMD-themed case myself.
Don't have my own NewEgg account, so...
Motherboard
CPU
RAM
GPU
PSU
Total without combos: $968.96
When you put the combos in your cart it will take them into account. Can't do it in a wishlist though. Don't put both the individual items and the combo into the cart, just the combo that contains the two items you want.
Technically, yes. To make it easier, all of the ones I listed have combos, most with each other to boot. I don't know how you want to arrange it, so play around with the combos until you are satisfied (or dissatisfied) with the prices.
Alright, so I just came up on a 7900GT, which isn't the greatest today, but it would be a step up from my Radeon 3650. Thing is, I'm not sure if I'd be able to use it.
AMD Athlon X2 3800+
1GB Memory
325W Power Supply
Obviously I know that I'm stretching it, but please don't start suggesting new PSU's. I'd just like to know if my current one is fine or not.
Simple answer: no.
Would underclocking the 7900GT make a difference?
It would, but only if you reduce the voltge as well. Because it was a high-end card, I don't know if even with the underclock the PSU would be able to handle it. Also, check if it would fit in your case, if you're looking at it online ;)
Should I buy the Logitech G500 mouse to replace a Logitech Optical mouse? Normally, I use the mouse to browse the web a lot (lots of scrolling), to play first person shooters (namely Crysis series, Halo series), multimedia (a must), and productivity (a ton of school work). Right now the Logitech G500 @ Newegg is pretty cheap due to the memorial weekend sale (?) and take into account the Mail-in-Rebate, which is $20. The grand total it seems for me with tax and shipping and all is $59.53 and with the MIR it's $39.53.
Should I go for it or save up the money ($80 at the moment) for other stuff like some PC games I want?
Can anyone find a $50-70 gfx card that's PCI-Express and works pretty good? I want to put one in my desktop pc, because right now it's running integrated graphics.
e: how good is this? I looked at similar products of this since you can't buy it anymore.
It's decent, what do you plan to use it for?
Well, right now I can't play games on my desktop, and can barely edit videos using Adobe Premiere. I want to upgrade to something so I can at least play Halo 2 Vista, and not just use it for watching videos and music storage :\
Well, unless you get an Nvidia 240 series or better GPU you won't get any kind of increase in Adobe Premiere at all. I really doubt you'll be able to get a 240 series or better for under $100 anywhere. The GPU you picked out would play some recent games on medium-low settings and should play older games and play videos just fine.
You SHOULD be okay to play Halo 2 Vista.
String together $110 and buy this: HIS HD 4850. It will make you a happy man. No sense in throwing away that cash on something shitty at $80 when $20 more gets you crazy performance.
Soon I will be building my friend a computer for personal use (gaming) and recording music for his band.
Does anyone have any good sounds devices to recommend, that will be able to record at high quality?
Just remember to get it before stock runs out :)
[Note: Please go through my entire post before replying because I might have some info already in there.]
So, I need a new, price-performance, watt-performance, durable graphics card to replace a temporary one that has been in my system. I'll probably purchase it within this month of June (when my report card comes in probably 2 weeks later). My budget range is around USD ~$320 after rebates but if it is necessary the absolute max is probably $350 after rebate/coupon. My usage includes gaming (Crysis series, Halo series --no anti-aliasing, maxed settings, 1920 x 1080 resolution), multimedia/entertainment (pictures, videos, movies, etc.), productivity (school stuff), and general stuff like surfing the internet.
My current specs:
- Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate x64
- Intel Core i5 750 2.66 GHz @ 2.66 GHz
- Asus P7P55D Pro Motherboard
- OCZ Platinum Low-Voltage D/C Kit 4 GB (2 x 2GB) DDR3-1333 PC3-10666 @ 7-7-7-20
- Western Digital Caviar Green 750 GB WD7500AADS Hard Drive
- ATI Radeon X300 SE 128 MB DDR 64-bit
- Gearhead 24XDVDINTLS DVD Burner Drive
- Cooler Master Extreme Power Plus 600 Watt (RS-600-PCAR-E3) [+12V1=18A, +12V2=18A]
- Antec Three Hundred Mid-ATX Case
- Samsung 2494SW 24" LCD Monitor (1920 x 1080 max supported resolution)
I don't care where I can buy the graphics card, as long as the retail/e-tail is trustworthy, reliable, has good support, and won't charge too much for shipping. (I don't know which is better though: Newegg or Tigerdirect in terms of online stores because Newegg charges me tax and certain products require shipping fee while Tigerdirect doesn't charge tax or shipping at the moment that is.) I need a graphics card that has sufficient drivers/support, an excellent warranty, can overclock to certain clock speeds that will have noticeable improvements but will not require voltage tweaking, can fit in an Antec 300 and be supported by my power supply unit, can last 3 years (but if I wanted, there is a very small chance that I might sell it and this is where any double lifetime warranties would be helpful), has good cooling/fan, is efficient, and won't have a major impact on my other components (such as creating enough heat to cause damage). I'm looking at XFX at the moment because their double lifetime warranty appeals to me and since I live in [southern] California, I suppose I'm eligible for their double lifetime warranty no matter where I buy the card, and no matter the model. However, I'm willing to look at Evga too because they're pretty good also.
GPUs in consideration:
- XFX Radeon HD5850 HD-585X-ZNFC 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 - $303.09 taxed/shipped
- XFX Radeon HD5850 HD-585X-ZAFC 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 - $309.99 shipped
- Sapphire Radeon HD5830 100297L 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 - $218.14 taxed/shipped and after mail-in-rebate
- XFX Radeon HD5830 HD-583X-ZNFV 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 - $309.99 shipped
- I would still like the reference cooler ATI Radeon HD5850 from either Sapphire or XFX if you could find it online.
Again, I can't have a graphics card that will obstruct anything in my case (can't be too long, since the Antec Three Hundred is probably a low-tier computer case) and must have good cooling [sound generated should be within an acceptable acoustic range]. The reason I didn't include the Evga GeForce GTX 465 is because it seems like it is competing more with the ATI HD5830 than it is with the ATI HD5850 in terms of performance, nor the Evga GeForce GTX 470 because my power supply most likely won't support it. As always, I'll be open to other suggestions even if it requires me putting out a bit of my own money (no more than $30-40) since the $300 (give or take + tax/shipping) is being paid by parents.
Eh, I think a 600W PSU can get by as long as you only have one GTX470. You have a Lynnfield CPU which helps with power consumption, so you might be able to squeeze it. The minimum spec PSU for the GTX470 is 550W anyways, so there you have it.
Of the ATi cards you listed, it's kind of a no-brainer for the HD5850.
Which cooler for the HD5850 is better? the 585X-ZNFC or 585X-ZAFC? (Reference cooler I guess was discontinued because the custom fans and whatnot is cheaper for XFX to make?).
Sorry for doublepost and bump but I have a question different from the one above (resolved). I'm thinking about selling my Cooler Master eXtreme Power Plus 600W RS-600-PCZR-E3 (with box, item(s) that came with power supply which was basically a manual, and the power supply itself) and buying Corsair CMPSU-650TX non-modular power supply for $69.99 (MIR = $20, tax exempt, free shipping), since I'm in a monetary drought. I bought the Cooler Master power supply at Fry's in January and it doesn't have any problems. But I want to upgrade my power supply to fit my needs and future proof it. What do you guys think?
+50 Watts isn't worth upgrading over, but Corsair makes better quality PSU's than CM from what I've read. Future-proofing a PSU is buying a good quality 1000+ wall PSU now, because if you treat it right it'll last you for 5+ years.
Unless the power connector standards change. Unlikely.
I just don't trust my current power supply to run 3-4 hard drives, 2-3 optical drives, and CPU/GPU overclocks in the future and I've also heard good reviews regarding Corsair's power supplies. I only need a power supply to last 3 years as when I graduate high school, I'm getting a notebook, as a gift. During those 3 years though, I need it to be very efficient and sturdy.
EDIT: Am I going to benefit more from the Corsair CMPSU-650TX than I am with the Cooler Master eXtreme Power+ 600?
Why the hell is it running more than one optical drive anyways? If it's Blu-Ray you want, just buy a Blu-Ray reader or burner (way more expensive for the burner) that can read and write all the other formats, too. Unless you're running SLI or Crossfire, that 600W should be fine. Hell, my stock Rosewill 420W PSU lasted me for 5 years running an overclocked CPU, GPU, three hard drives, and a single optical drive. My CPU is also a 130nm process, so it runs hot as hell and sucks power. You'll be better off saving the money for a good laptop.
What if I were to sell my power supply, how much should I sell it for (I was thinking ~$50, but I'm open to suggestions) and on what website and if applicable, what carrier (shipping) should I use?
Quick CPU question - I'm looking on Newegg, and it shows Core i7s that work on LGA1366 and LGA1156 sockets, which can also run i3 and i5s. How does that work?
It's only better because you get two full PCIe 16x slots not a 16x and a 4x electrical 16x :ohdear: :gonk: :ugh:
It's also better because of the higher memory bandwidth and because it has more powerful CPUs at its disposal. 1156 is about to die anyways, since Intel is releasing yet another new slot in the form of the LGA1155 for its upcoming Sandy Bridge chips.
So I'm planning this build, more of a theoretical project then a real one at the moment because I won't have the funds to purchase it until sometime next year. That said, I plan to do a "Dream Machine, top of the line" build next year so I priced out all the current stuff in hopes that the top of the line stuff next year will be similarly priced. This is what I have so far:
http://secure.newegg.ca/WishList/Pub...umber=13247985
In short:
Corsair Obsidian 800D Case
Intel Core i7-980X
EVGA X58 Classified 3-way SLI
12GB 1600 Corsair XMS3 Memory
Two GTX 480 GPU's
160GB Intel X25-M SSD
Two 2TB Western Digital Caviar Black HDD's
Blu-ray burner
Corsair HX 1000 Watt PSU
Suggestions on this build would be welcome, but as I said I doubt any of these components will be the same this time next year.
That said, I'd like to water-cool the entire thing, I'm a noob to water-cooling. Basically the extent of my knowledge is the following; I know I need a pump, radiator, reservoir, water-blocks, and tubing but I have no idea what type of components I should buy. I'm fairly confident that I can assemble the loop myself with no problems, I just need help on picking out the right components, if possible from FrozenCPU.com since I've dealt with them before! I want to cool the CPU and GPU's for sure, possibly the motherboard bridges and such as well.
Here's what I would plan on getting for the above build (in loop order as well):
Pump
Radiator
CPU Block
Motherboard Block (Optional)
GPU Block 1
4 Slot SLI Fitting
GPU Block 2
Reservoir (Color subject to change)
Does that look about right? Suggestions/Comments/Questions? I have no idea what tubing size I should go for, I'll probably just end up going with the most common stuff to make it easier.
Fittings are another thing that bugs me, their entire purpose is to connect to your blocks/rad/res and connect it to the appropriately sized tubing right? From what I hear compression fittings are the most secure and safest to use so I'll probably go with them, is that the general consensus?
Dunno why I'm posting this since it's already been decided but I guess I can get some of your thoughts on this. I just ordered this on xoticpc.com and the total came out to about $1,530 plus shipping. The price is a little steep, and god knows I would build the same desktop for half the price if I wasn't going off to campus and all that spiel. This is 100% coming out of my own pay, and kiddies, let me say that it's a great feeling being able to buy yourself tech.
1x Sager NP8690 (Built on Clevo W860CU) Custom Gaming Laptop
For what I'm getting in RAM and HD Space, the deal isn't as good as the ASUS G73jh-A2, which has 1 TB HD and 8GB RAM and goes for $1,550 when in stock. But I'm not going for that since it has like a 50% hardware failure rate.
Looks good, I would of grabbed an i7-620M instead of the 720QM if given the choice however.