Quick-Crit 2008-2009

Use ninja tags next time. The white text on the Source theme is more noticeable than the regular text.

Also, mass had some good ideas with that. You should do it.

e: Also, tapering (the already created model) would be easy. Just delete exactly half of the model. Then, rotate all the faces so that the front of the structure is converging. Then, move all the verts that are supposed to be in the middle back to 0. Then, use a symmetry modifier. Not too difficult, and your faces are still planar.

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Originally Posted by Corndogman

Question, what angle do they usually taper at? Does it follow regular forerunner angles? It seems like 30 would be too much, so I'm thinking 15. (though It's not technically one of the angles, it is still used sometimes.)

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?

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Originally Posted by MetKiller Joe

Awesome job on that. The only thing I'd say is that it would benefit from some texture variation on the top. You seemed to use a variety on the bottom and then stopped for some reason after the middle.

Also, that cage in the middle, I think it would look better if the cage was facing straight rather than at 45 degrees down.

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That's from last year lol, really really old shit :p

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Originally Posted by =sw=warlord

some of the buildings in Halowars

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not made by bungie, doesn't count

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Originally Posted by Selentic

That's from last year lol, really really old shit :p

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Hehe, wasn't aware. Oh well.

Very, very unfinished

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/m...v2/spitwip.jpg

Are you painting over a screenshot or is that from scratch?

Your highlights and shadows are kinda wavy and the highlights in particular look a little like plastic. Try to smooth them out, as well as dull the highlights a little. We're talking painted metal here, which often adds a certain dull quality to reflected light.

On the waviness, notice the shadows on the air scoop under the nose skew the perception of its shape.

And, unless this is a night shot, brighten your shadows.

Paintover. I could do it from scratch as I have a near-photographic memory where the Spitfire is concerned, but my proportions and perspective skills aren't the greatest.

Wavy lighting is a problem, I know, but I'm still trying to get the hang of my tablet. I should probably adjust the sensitivity or something for the pressure sensor. That said, any close-up photo of a WWII fighter will show inconsistent and wavy highlights and shadows as no panel was perfectly smooth. This was particularly noticeable along rivet lines or curved sections. The highlight is the way it is because those squadrons with the time and resources to do so and a need for maximum performance would polish their aircraft regularly.

Overall lighting intensity is low because it's going to be rather late in the evening.

I'll see what I can do with the lighting on the carby scoop and the top plating of the fuselage, but the rest will probably remain as-is.

The only way to get better, is to use references and not actually paint over it. You should really consider painting in the lighting to some extent, then adding dodge and burn afterward to help with volume and other things, I don't know much about old planes, but can help you on technique if you want.

I only used the screen for a shape/proportion template and to get the panel joints in the exact right spot. The lighting on the original screen is nothing like what I added, because once I got the basic shape and colours down, I disabled the layer.

Painted lighting is something I'd like to have done, but I'm pretty terrible at it. I dunno, I might go back and redo it later with painted lighting.