I read the reviews for it later, and alot of people had them die on them.Quote:
Originally Posted by Haruhi
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I read the reviews for it later, and alot of people had them die on them.Quote:
Originally Posted by Haruhi
Well I had the Core i5 on there but then there was a bundle discount with the mobo which made up a lot of the difference. And both were 90W so I figured why not. Like I said, it's a bit awkward. I'm still looking for a high performance machine. Don't forget some of those cycles will be stolen for RAID.
You need that DOMINATOR memory for a HTPC/general usage desktop? You could probably get cheaper stuff and get 8GB's for the same price, or just get 4GB's and lower the total.
I want everything to be as fast as possible. Esp with file transfers and streaming and whatnot. My goal is over 70 MB/s transfer read and write, as it will have at least 4 TB of storage (I've seen builds over 100 MB/s, but I don't think my hard drives will get it there, maybe, we'll see how the RAID does). My current device gives me something around 10 MB/s if I'm lucky and is incredibly finicky.
Why don't you get an HTPC case?
EDIT: Or is it not strictly going to be an HTPC?
No definitely not strictly HTPC. Also I need at least 5 HDD slots, which is pretty much impossible to find without a tower.
Would I be able to get by using a HD 4850 with a 420w PSU temporarily?
Most likely. 4850 draws about 250w max.Quote:
Originally Posted by Terin
Would I be able to run Half-life 2 on max settings with this desktop PC? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16883103222
At what resolution? At 1024x768, maybe (iffy when considering whether you include AA and AF in "max setings" and because I don't trust anything with a designation as low as "G100," even if it is a GeForce). Anything more, and you'll need something better. You could slap in a much better card for $60, or a really good one for $100.
The G100 is the equivalent of a Geforce 9 card.Quote:
Originally Posted by Warsaw
G100 is ~9400 gt
It looks closer to the 8400GS actually
I guess it'll run HL2 at 640x480 with playable fps
Lmao.Quote:
Originally Posted by Haruhi
I'm sure it can be a bit higher then that.
http://www.nvidia.com/object/product..._g_100_us.html
You said max settings, and that usually includes AA and AF. Keeping the AA off, you could probably get 1280x1024 playable
Don't expect other games to work well though.
I ran HL2 on a Geforce Go 6150 with everything maxed (but no Anti-aliasing) and it ran very playably at 640x480. I'm sure the G100 can do better than that.
Well aware of that. It's a low GeForce 9 though, considering that the GT120 is the 9600GT. This one isn't even a GT, it's just a G.Quote:
Originally Posted by DrunkenSamus
Like I said, just spend the extra $60 and don't worry about it. If you're buying a new computer and can't squeeze the extra $60 in there, you should probably wait a little bit anyways.
GT 120 is a 9500 gt. 130 is the 9600 gt.
Looking at Wiki, the 130 is a slower 9600GSO 512. Whatever way you look at it, the G100 is terrible. It's a slightly faster 9400GT; sure, you can play HL2, but you won't be playing it at 1680x1050 at maximum, and I'll give it props if it can push out 40 frames of HL2 at maximum settings and 1280x1024 resolution.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bhamid
My 7300 GT did a good job with Half-life 2 at 1280x1024 with all max :O
I've seen how a GeForce 7350 LE handles Half-Life 2. It isn't pretty. It stutters, jumps, and is otherwise inconsistent. It plays OK, but the laggy sections are too frequent to tolerate, in my opinion.
It's his call though. If he wants to try out the G100, no loss there if it turns out that he's satisfied with its performance.
With that decent processor, I'm sure it can, and at 500 dollars? So worth it.
my 7950 had problems with hl2. not to much, but i can imagine a 7350 trying that. doesn't sound too pretty.
as for 500 being worth it? hardly.
Basically, find something with a better video card. :-3
or build your own.
CPU doesn't mean diddly squat in Half-Life 2. I can get maximum settings smoothly using the Cinematic Mod (that means higher than normal resolution on textures and higher poly models) with my setup. So, that GPU will either be just fine or be just fine with stuttering.Quote:
Originally Posted by DrunkenSamus
EP2 benefits for multicore CPUs, right?
I have a question about my choice of graphics cards. My specs are
-AMD Athlon X2 (1.9Ghz dual core)
-1GB Memory (Planning to make it 2gb)
-ATI Radeon 3650 1GB
-350W Ultra Power Supply
Basically, I'd like to know which graphics card I should get to run on my power supply. Would something like a 9800GT or an HD 4850 be fine? What would my bottleneck be concerning the limits of my specs?
Your CPU is way too slow, you don't have enough RAM (and I have no idea what speed your RAM is), and while you probably can run the 4850 on that PSU, I would opt for something that grants me more overhead.
I'm a mid-range gamer, and as long as I can run my stuff on a 1440x900 res, I'm perfectly fine. Any recommendations?
1440x900 at what graphical quality?
I'm assuming you have a socket AM2 board, so any AMD Socket AM2/AM2+ CPU that runs at 3+GHz will significantly increase performance (the best you can do is the Phenom II X4 940). As for RAM, I'm going to assume it's DDR2 800MHz, and you should have 4GB of that. Video card is fine for 1440x900, but if you want more eye candy, go with the HD4770 or better.
Processor lapping.
I know from experience that the best way to lap is to lap the processor AND the heat sink you've got attached to it. I've lapped the setup my dad is currently using (Core 2 Duo E6600 with some non-stock HSF that I forget) and I lapped both the processor and the HSF when I was using that setup.
My question is, will lapping JUST the HSF decrease your temperatures or is lapping the processor required as well? I found that I still have a few extra sheets from the packs of 600, 800, 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit that I bought for the previous lap and I was thinking of doing my Thermalright Ultra 120. However I don't think I'll have enough to lap my Q6600 as well, and I'm being a cheap lazy bum that doesn't want to go buy more...
So just wondering?
I might have the extra material to do my processor as well, by the time I get around to it. I'm planning on scheduling a week where I do all the case mods I have planned, and than paint the case interior. It just donned on me that while I'm waiting for coats to dry I could do some lapping as well...
Depends on the heatsink. You'll usually get a noticible improvement lapping the TRUE alone.
Folding rig question:
I've been looking into building a dedicated folding rig just in case I end up getting hired for one of the seasonal/part-time jobs I've applied for. I'm aiming for a GPU folding rig so I went with 4 EVGA GTX 295 Superclocked Edition GPU's and than build the rig around them with the cheapest decent parts I could find on New Egg, here's the complete PC.
I chose the case I did because of the apparent high airflow and 8 expansion ports requirement. I don't want to go caseless for the simple fact that it's an eyesore to us non-tech oriented folk, and a case makes everything self contained for easy relocation and such. I may also use this as a file server to replace my current one, so the case has lots of HDD storage potential.
I'm open for suggestions regarding the case in addition to any other components.
Note that this isn't a high priority for me right now, as at this point in time I wouldn't be able to afford it. This will ONLY happen if I get the jobs I've mentioned, and even than not for awhile while I build up funds.
Looks fine other than the small PSU. A window AC unit for the room would be good too.
Put in a new heatsink a couple weeks ago, and it's ridiculously large. There's about half an inch from the heatsink to my case door, lol...but that aside, I had to take out the fan on the door so the heatsink would fit. I notice overall system temps have gone down from better airflow, but is dust a problem? Like, would a make-shift screen or something be better than just an open hole with a few grills? It hasn't caused any problems so far, and I want to keep it that way.
the screen would protect things inside from getting dusty, but eventually they'd get clogged, and then the computer wouldn't get any air at all. i'd go ahead and make some screens for the fans, but you have to remember to clean them!Quote:
Originally Posted by Yoko
After getting some suggestions from fellow folders, I changed up the setup a bit and shaved about $1,700 off the potential folding rig:
http://secure.newegg.ca/WishList/Pub...umber=15577148
Do what I did when I first installed my TRUE, mount your side fan on the outside with a dust cover and fan grill:Quote:
Originally Posted by Yoko
Here's my first try at building a PC (mostly changed by free): newegg wishlist
I was aiming for something mostly cheap, but I want something that should do well for a while. I'm just starting early, and I'll try to get it for christmas.
Feel free to comment, or feel free to ignore. Mostly, I wonder what else I can downgrade to get it a bit cheaper.
Not bad. Good luck putting it together. I remember when I put my computer together for the first time. Its a lot of fun.
I referred him to the OP here and then made him a basic wishlist based on that with a few suggestions here and there. He's not into any intensive PC applications that require a beast of a machine, but he's got some head room for upgrading with that build.
Is it possible to break a RAID 1 array without loosing data on the drives? I currently have two WD Caviar Black 1TB's on RAID 1 for storage, but I need storage space over file protection at the moment...
No
Yes
no
i hope you lose all datas
Darn, well I guess I'll have to wait and buy another Caviar Black 1TB at Christmas... Then dump all my datas onto it and split the RAID so I can has 3TB's of storage. :haw:
oh shit I meant yes.
ugh,
Only one drive needs to retain the data, I guess I could test it fairly easily by plugging one of the raid disks into my dads PC... If all the data is there then I'm good to go, just format the other drive and I'm done...
1) Pull out one drive
2) Plug drive back in into different SATA port
3) Copy all data to loner drive
4) Clear RAID array
5) Re-configure new RAID array
Since they're RAID 1, shouldn't the data already be on the "loner drive"?
The reason people run raid 1 is so both drive have the same data... so yes
The data will technically be there, but when you pull it from the array, I don't know if it will be in an independently readable format.
EDIT: Yeah, as Goat said, I guess that makes sense. RAID 1 seems kind of silly. Why not just set up a backup drive and then backup what you want?
830 GB's / 931 GB's is stuff I want backups of, though I may just forgo the backup solution for awhile... I've never had a drive fail on me before. *knocks on wood*
well you have been lucky, I for one have tried the freezer trick as well as chanting voodoo over a dead drive. Then again my first hard disk was like 650MB....and yeah they have come quite a ways since then. The last one I had fail was in 2006 i think, but the drive was old as shit. There can not be enough said about backing up data. If you don't think it is important today, ask all the guys who have lost their source code. In the *real* world hard drives do fail, and backups are the difference in an educated decision, or losing your fucking data, as with the recent tmobile snaffu, I bet most of those folks were banking on no crash too.
1 Terabyte drive = 89.99
Not Losing 8 years of Porn = Priceless
Quote:
Originally Posted by justin108
HDD in the freezer worked for me. When my 500gb external drive went to shit, I was able to get all the data off of it by freezing. It took a few times, but I eventually got it all off.
For x-mas im getting 2 of these (selling current): http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16824236049
Will also be upgrading my GFX card and was wondering what one would be best suited for running both those monitors (ASUS supremacy, going to take a lot of persuading to change my mind on what monitor to get). My price range is $300. I was looking at these so far:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16814130475
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16814121308
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16814161299
ATI has far superior multi-monitor support, so I'd get one of the ATI cards.
People, stop buying 1920x1080 monitors, 1920x1200 is superior!
I'd go for the HIS card
The gtx275 is a bit faster but not a whole 100 dollars faster (compared to the HIS 4890 with rebate)
Get the HIS, and the right cables since it doesn't have any adapters :-3
Also looking into getting a bluray drive, just one that plays bluray disks. I have no use for one that serves as a DVD/CD burner, considering I already have a drive that serves that purpose... Besides installation, I literally have 0 clue about drives. I saw this one had good pretty good ratings, but maybe some of you have more insight on what to look for ;]
A PREDICAMENT:
As of late, I've become increasingly obsessed with the possibility of modding Fallout 3. Unfortunately, I don't have a good enough PC to do such a thing at the moment; I need a good, economic solution that will allow me to play the game on high settings (which, as I've heard, does not exactly require the best video card in existence.) Is anyone willing to help me with this predicament?
e: well this was a dumb question
good job reading the first post sam
Besides skinning, I fail to see how a crappy video card would stop you from modding the game. I've squeezed another 30 hours out of Fallout 3 by modding the game. Hands down the best SP RPG I've ever played.Quote:
Originally Posted by Huero
Whoa, that's a cheap Blu-Ray reader. Well I guess it's gotta be good since 80% of reviews are 5 star positive. Guess it just lacks features.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ganon
4670 should do you fine.
I don't even have the minimum RAM required; and we're due in for a new PC anyway. I'll just go for the low end setup here.Quote:
Originally Posted by Amit
Alright, then. I just didn't think you'd embark on a new PC-building endeavour just because you want a few features. Well, if we only new the model number of your motherboard, we'd be able to tell you if it's worth upgrading the components or building a new PC from scratch. I just prefer to kill my PCs first. Push it to the edge, identify the failed components, and then do an analysis to see if it's cost-effective to replace the part(s) or to build a whole new PC. My current PC I built just a year and a half ago so I don't think I'll need to upgrade anytime soon, except that I've been so fucking poor that I can't even afford to replace this X1600PRO. Had two of them in crossfire on my old PC and jacked one to put in here once I sold my Atomic HD 3870s for a ridiculous amount of money (probably should have kept one). Protip kids: herb = significant cash loss. My dad wants this computer, though...he's always taking my computers away from me :( But he always funds my new system so maybe I'll be able to build something with more bang for my buck this time.Quote:
Originally Posted by Huero
Well, as it turns out, the screen is black when I turn on the computer. Every time I turn it on. Uncanny timing, no? Methinks the video card is fried, and I don't know how to go about telling you the motherboard model otherwise. I do know that it has like, 512 MB of RAM, and HAD a GeForce 6100 (evidently not now, lol.)
Open up your case and smell it. Never failed me.
Okay guys I need your help. I'm building a new PC, I have like £550 ($917) to spend.
I asked my friend to look up some good parts, he has but he didnt check they were compatible. If you guys could check, and also say if the parts are good etc.
Mobo:
XFX nForce 750i SLI Socket 775 (1333MHz FSB up to 1800MHz overclocked) 8 channel audio ATX Motherboard
£67.99
Ram:
Corsair 4GB (2x2GB) DDR2 800MHz/PC2-6400 XMS2 Memory Kit CL5 1.8v
£75.00
GFX Card:
XFX GTX260 Black Edition 896MB DDR3 Dual DVI PhysX and Cuda ready PCI-E Graphics Card
£146.84
CPU Fan:
Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro rev 2 Socket 775, 1156, 1366, AM2, AM3 Heatpipe CPU Cooler
£16.59
HD:
Western Digital WD5001AALS 500GB Hard Drive SATAII 7200rpm 32MB Cache - OEM Caviar Black
£42.07
Case:
Antec 300 Three Hundred Black Case - No PSU
£39.74
PSU:
OCZ Stealth XStream 600W PSU - SLI Ready ATX2.2 12cm Fan
£59.99
CPU:
Intel Core 2 Quad Q8300 2.5GHz Socket 775 1333FSB 4MB L2 Cache Retail Boxed Processor
£101.50
Please note, I'm not going for a gaming pc, so I dont need it to be mega great, some thing reasonable that can be play games pretty well.
If you guys recommend other parts, could you check this site (http://www.ebuyer.com/) has them, and they are still within the budget, because UK prices are more expensive.
Wait, why are you buying your CPU in a retail box (which has a CPU fan) and getting a separate CPU fan? You should either get an OEM Processor with the separate fan or get the retail box version and leave it at that.
And the fan you selected isn't really that good...
Hmm, I'm assuming because he though stock fan wasnt too good.
Here are links to the parts on newgg so you can look at the reviews there and decide for yourself if they are good for your needs.Quote:
Originally Posted by Limited
Mobo:XFX nForce 750i
Ram: CORSAIR XMS2 4GB (2 x 2GB)
GFX Card:XFX GTX260 Black Edition
CPU Fan:ARCTIC COOLING Freezer 7 Pro Rev.2
HD:Western Digital WD5001AALS 500GB
Case:Antec Three Hundred
PSU:OCZ StealthXStream OCZ600SXS 600W
CPU:Intel Core 2 Quad Q8300
Thanks alot, seems like most people like the parts. Compared to what I have now it will be a massive increase in speed. I'm not looking for a beast of a pc, so I think it will do the job.
Only thing is, will all the parts work together? Most of them will, I'm just a tad nervous about it lol, I hope to order the parts like within the next week.
Limited if you don't plan to OC (I'm assuming your not because your not going for a hardcore gaming PC) the stock intel fan should be fine, I hear they're ok. Some people say they OC with the stock fan on the Phenom II's, I haven't OCed but the stock fan keeps it cool.
It seems everything should work together and the antec 300 is a petty good choice... it was enjoyable working with that case.
Just for fun I built an i5 Computer out of your budget. It was originally for you, but... I went 60 Euros over the limit. I'm posting anyways because I spent quite a bit of time and tried to work with what I got, so why let that effort go to waste?
Enjoy.
Case: http://www.ebuyer.com/product/143854 ~~~~£39.73
Motherboard: http://www.ebuyer.com/product/173450 ~~~~£136.84
CPU/Processor: http://www.ebuyer.com/product/172755 ~~~~£144.31
RAM/Memory: http://www.ebuyer.com/product/180490 ~~~~£79.99
GPU/Graphics Card: http://www.ebuyer.com/product/176938 ~~~~£116.98
PSU/Power Supply: http://www.ebuyer.com/product/127861 ~~~~ £49.98
HDD/Hard Drive: http://www.ebuyer.com/product/150246 ~~~~£42.29
Subtotal: £610.12
If you down the graphics card to a HD 5750, you can save a good couple pounds and still have crazy performance.Quote:
Originally Posted by AAA
You're right, I have a 4770 and I max out on every game with playable frames, hardly any slow downs. I didn't think about it. Thanks. =)
Quote:
Originally Posted by AAA
:) My birthday is next month and I'm hoping that I can ask for a Sapphire HD 4770 if my parents ask me what I want. It's only $120 at my favourite local PC shop. The HD 5750 has identical performance to the HD 4770, but it has DX11 support. I don't care about all that fancy stuff. I'm still trying to run DX9 games at full settings.
I know what you mean, but seriously, I won't be playing anything Direct X 11 when most of the DX10 cards can't even handle DX10 enabled games.
my system is a little aged, so i think it's time for a little upgrade..
my current specs are in my profile,
i'm thinking of upgrading the video card, but i'm _totally_ lost.. last time i looked into gfx cards was when the geforce 9600 series were pretty good for how much they were.
what else should i upgrade? i'm thinking of getting rid of the stock cooler on the cpu and overclocking it, but so far it hasn't choked on me.. the video card is really bottlenecking everything lol
also what is this pci express 2.0 shit, is it backwards compatible?
PCI 2.0 motherboards are backwards compatible with older gfx cards, but not the other way around I think.
My reccomendation is the gt 240
PCIE 1.0 motherboards work for 2.0 cards.
Your system looks okay to me. All you would really need to upgrade is the video card, as you said. You could look into getting a cheap GT 220 or GT 240. Even better, you can get a Radeon HD 4770 for around $100US.Quote:
Originally Posted by mR_r0b0to
gt 240 is the newer equivalent of the 9600 gt btw.
i just got a GeForce 9800GT for 80 bux off newegg
it should last me a while.. thanks all +repp (do you guys still care about that?) :iamafag:
I am in a bind. The card I was going to get got discontinued ;[
Now I'm deciding whether or not to get a 4890 or a 5770. Seems like its really a case of power vs technology (5770s have DX11). As I said before, all it needs to do is be able to run 2 monitors and outperform my current 8800gt. I do however probably prefer the 4890s, as I don't really care about DX11.
this search narrows it down: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...essing%20Units
So far i'm eyeing this one for 5770s: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121355&cm_re=hd_5770-_-14-121-355-_-Product
halp
They're all the same just buy one :-3
I say go with the HD4890. You don't care about DX11, there are only two games I know of slated to support DX11 (and even then they probably won't be using even 25% of the advantages it brings), and the 4890 is marginally more powerful. Also, that 128-bit bus on the HD5770 is going to murder your frame rates at higher resolutions.
I'm probably gonna get a 5850
no one asked u, kay? :maddowns:
Also, why?
Its more powerful than the 4870, has dx11, and I will be able to crossfire it for my bday
>: D
bit OT, do i need vista+ for dx10+? im still running xp :realsmug:
Yes you do.
Pyong: You have a srs CPU bottleneck with the 5850, let alone with two.
I propose going with the 4890. You get at least +10fps or more than the 5770.
Hey, I'm thinking about building a completely new PC. (I can't live with the Dell Dimension 1100 anymore). The new PC must last at least 2 to 4 years without any upgrades. I'm going to play a lot of movies, music, avidly surf the web, do work, and some newer or future games (although the only game I have right now is Halo). I will also OC the CPU and GPU to something stable 24/7. Right now, I will probably OC the CPU that i have in my builds to around 3.2 - 3.3 GHz. The maximum price is $750 - $850; give or take 5 dollars.
These are my ideas so far...:
Build 1
Will OC Sapphire HD5770 between 875/975 for core and 1350/1450 for mem. 24/7. I don't know what the "safe" values are though, if there are any.
Build 2
Regarding the out of stock Sapphire HD5850, I will buy it when it's back in stock. (Will OC between 750/850 for core and 1125/1225 for mem). Same thing...I am trying to squeeze even a little bit more performance out by being in the maximum safe value, though I have no clue what it is.
For the case that I have for both of the builds above right now, I might leave the side panel off...
I am open to new suggestions and advice is always welcome. All the MIR deals end 11/30, today. I am not sure whether to buy a system now or wait longer (probably until next year Jan-March).
Thanks.
I like your Build No. 2, I like it a lot.
If you want to save a little cash, a system based on the AMD Phenom II X4 955 or 965 would perform very comparably to the i5. If you do go that route, I recommend the 955 over the 965 though because they are essentially different bins of the same chip; just overclock it (it is a Black Edition after all).
So if I want to do some 24/7 OC and have a stable/cool system with a reliable company and get maximum performance out of the the tight budget, which would you go with: the Evga P55 LE or the Gigabyte GA-P55M-UD2? I'm pretty sure I will have a dual-slot video card and that I will get a PCI network card/adapter.
Okay, this isn't building a computer, but it's an upgrade of sorts. I just got my free Win7 home premium delivered this morning, but I'm not quite sure as to the best method to install it. I heard that just upgrading the existing Vista installation can bring a shitload of grief into play.
My idea (tell me if this is ridiculous) was to create a large partition on the drive to install Win7 to and then start moving my data across from the Vista partition until there's nothing left, in which case I would delete the Vista partition and expand the Win7 one to fill that part of the drive. Is that completely ridiculous/crazy and should I just invest in a USB hard drive to backup to and just nuke the whole Vista section all at once?
what no I'm pretty sure it makes a window.old folder in c:/ and keeps your old files, you could ask others as well
The disk is telling me it either upgrades the current Vista installation or, failing that, requires a fresh clean install where I have to backup all of my files.
