When I installed over my windows 7 beta with the full it was a fresh install yes, but it kept the files in a windows.old folder you could sort through later. I assumed it was the same for vista to 7.
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When I installed over my windows 7 beta with the full it was a fresh install yes, but it kept the files in a windows.old folder you could sort through later. I assumed it was the same for vista to 7.
Definitely the Gigabyte board; they've been in the game much longer than eVGA has and I trust them to make a solid board more than I trust eVGA to make one that works. I don't have any experience with eVGA motherboards, but I have owned Gigabyte ones.Quote:
Originally Posted by bleach
RAM in the "you don't have money but i still love you" is "deactivated"
Well when I went to order my parts, 3 items were out of stock and 2 were discontinued, bugger. But luckily one became 'un-discontinued', the other was substituted.
Hopefully order will be here in like 2 weeks, then I can attempt to put it together :D
Can you guys help me out, finding which DVD disks are compatible with this drive?
http://www.ebuyer.com/product/170014...roduct_reviews
I've had issues in past, where its not the right kind/right speed etc etc.
Only DVDs from Walmart.
No seriously the new DVDs drives support almost all types of DVD types, speeds etc. The stuff it says like RW etc are just things they just additionally support.
At the beginning when DVDs were first introduced you just had to pay attention that your drive had not a higher speed set than the DVD supported. Shrapnel...cannot happen anymore today :P
Ah right, because with my dads laptop I bought some DVD disks, that had same write speed, was same type (RW) and they didnt work at all.Quote:
Originally Posted by CrAsHOvErRide
Protip:
DVD+RW =/= DVD-RW
Who wants RWs anyway :P
Either you burn the movie or you don't. Temporary storage can be achieved nowadays with a $5 8GB memory stick or exHDD.
ftfy.Quote:
Originally Posted by CrAsHOvErRide
Some of us burn Linux .iso files onto a disc and then find out that the md5 checksum doesn't check out, so we want to delete and try again with a fresh download without wasting another disc. :v:Quote:
Originally Posted by CrAsHOvErRide
Burn at slow speeds, check the MD5 before burning...
Ftfy.Quote:
Originally Posted by CrAsHOvErRideWho wants RWs anyway :P
Either you burn the movie or you don't. Temporary storage can be achieved nowadays with a $26 64GB flash drives or exHDD.Quote:
Originally Posted by AAA
Or you could get a 128GB for $65...
I have one here for 5 Euros..explain.Quote:
Originally Posted by AAA
I've never seen them for $5 either...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...21176&name=8GB
Oh wow it was this one http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820191248
Maybe mine fell of a truck or something and that's why the price was so low but wow xD
Or you could make a live USB like I did with Unetbootin.Quote:
Originally Posted by Warsaw
and what would the point of that be?Quote:
Originally Posted by Freelancer
2x 64gb drives@$26 per peice versus 1x128gb@$65
Practicality...
ATTN Freelancer: when have you ever been practical.
Almost never. He's a part of the high-end enthusiast.Quote:
Originally Posted by NullZero
$20 extra for practicality? i could spent an extra $6 and get three of the 64GB's sticks for the price of 1 128gb how is that practical?Quote:
Originally Posted by Freelancer
You'd look pretty stupid carrying around three USB keys instead of just one. That's what they're for by the way, portable storage... I always carry around my 128GB, everywhere I go, because you never know when you might need to save something! It's completely different from buying something like two high-end graphics cards, you don't carry those around with you (except that I actually end up carrying them to LAN parties a lot anyways, ugh).
By the time you need to transfer 128Gb's at once you may as well get a god damned 1TB external drive for that price.Quote:
Originally Posted by Freelancer
What would you use 128 GB on a memory stick for?
I transfer lots of HD video back and forth between certain computers, sometimes it's faster than using the network because wireless is so slow. I'm also a pack rat and always try to store rather than delete files that I think I'll use more than once.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bhamid
Having 3 lets you have even more backup copies if you wish. As long as its under 64GB.Quote:
Originally Posted by Freelancer
Therefore, having 3 is better, also who gives a fuck if you "look stupid" carrying around 3, least your data's backed up.
Get an external HD, then you can transfer loads at once :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Freelancer
I would rather have three 64GB drives and split my data up into 3 winrars than have it all in one mega file, not only is it quicker to transfer but also safer and would allow more storage.Quote:
Originally Posted by Limited
Yeah, who uses flash drives anymore.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bhamid
I am hesitant to put everything into a big RAR file (at least as a primary backup) for fear of corruption. If the archive gets messed up then ALL your files are potentially lost.Quote:
Originally Posted by =sw=warlord
Exactly. Also, why would you display your USB drives to the world? Hell, I don't even keep my single drive around my neck for fear of the thread coming loose.Quote:
Originally Posted by Limited
Again, I don't use my USB keys for backup purposes, I use them for their designed purpose, portable storage. I put data on and take it off later at another computer where it will be stored, external hard drives are useless for this because you can't just carry an external hard drive around with you everywhere you go!
If I wanted to back something up then I'd use a RAID 1 array of hard drives, not flash memory...
You can buy the portable "Passport" or similar drives from Western Digital and other manufacturers.
You can get external drives the size of a very small book with about 320GB's if not more in some cases which i really dont see as much of a burden, their pretty much same size as a PDA so how would that make it useless for your needs?Quote:
Originally Posted by Freelancer
They still require an external power source, so you also need to carry around the power adapter and a connection cable. USB keys are by far the best portable storage out there.
http://reviews.cnet.com/laptop-hard-...-31239699.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by Stephanie Bruzzese
That could pose a problem with laptops that are not plugged into the wall, but I see no reason for it not to work without an external power source. My sister uses one on her Thinkpad and she says it works great. Her laptop is plugged in to an outlet most of the time, which most computers should be when transferring data.
The USB drive still remains the lightest and easiest method of transfer, though. I would carry both if I had enough money to buy a "Passport" and a large capacity USB drive. I'll stick with my 16GB SanDisk Cruzer Micro.
Cool SanDisk video:
My external is smaller than a SSD, has 320GB and doesn't need an external power source.
Portable HDs i.e passports use USB power.
They're still too big to carry around everywhere I go all the time.
You must have small pockets.Quote:
Originally Posted by Freelancer
Everyone's got different sized pockets. I could fit it in the front pockets of any pants I have, but I would keep it in my locker when I don't need it. Freelancer, I thought you were out of school. Where do you go that you need to take temporary data storage with you every time?Quote:
Originally Posted by =sw=warlord
I'm finished high school, I'm taking a few other courses as well as sitting in a few University courses. You can sit in certain lessons without actually being accepted to the University/College here without paying or anything, you just don't get a certificate or diploma saying you did anything for it.
I actually wear combat pants most of the time as well, huge pockets, but I still wouldn't want to carry around something that bulky unless it's a whole computer (netbooks are only a bit larger than those enclosures).
You really should update the section of "You don't have money but i still love you" xet. 1/2 the parts there (mainly the gfx and the ram) are deactivated
Nice. However, have you ever held a Passport in your hand before? It's actually not too large.Quote:
Originally Posted by Freelancer
I have a 500GB 2.5" external HDD; it's metal and pretty slim, if I do say so myself.
Yea I have, but like I said, netbooks are the same basic size (maybe slightly bigger on some models) and you get an entire computer. If all you want is storage it's a lot easier to get it a USB key.Quote:
Originally Posted by Amit
256GB of USB storage is ~$350. You can actually buy a netbook for that price. USB keys are only good to a point, and that point ends around 32GB before it starts getting outrageous.
You guys can argue all you want about subjective "size" and other bullshit, but let's put some numbers in here, shall we?
CORSAIR Voyager GT 128GB USB 2.0 Flash Drive
Dimensions: 4" x 1.5" x 0.67"
Weight: 0.22 lbs
Price/GB: $3.125
Western Digital My Passport Elite 250GB USB 2.0
Dimensions: 5.0" x 3.1" x 0.6"
Weight: 0.23 lbs
Price/GB: $0.24
Both draw power from USB. Both have similar performance in terms of transfer speeds.
If you ask me the answer is quite obvious. You are paying 13x more $/GB for the flash drive, whereas they have the same weight, same power requirements, and same transfer speeds. And the flash drive only takes 1" off the length and 1.5" off the width. That makes the flash drive half as small in volume, but that's still not very much, considering these things aren't that big in the first place.
That being said, I'm totally for SSD's and flash drives up to 32 GB. The higher capacity flash drives just aren't practical right now. In a year though I'm sure these numbers will all be vastly different.
P.S. I own a 500 GB WD Passport Elite and a 16 GB Corsair Flash Drive.
Refer to below quote.Quote:
Originally Posted by Freelancer
This, completely. This is the WD passport my sister has: http://www.wdc.com/en/products/Products.asp?DriveID=569Quote:
Originally Posted by TheGhost
It fits in my hand no problem. Netbooks are over 12" long, or did you mean in terms of Hard Drive capacity for the price you buy them for?
Both.Quote:
Originally Posted by Amit
Not really, you still need to goto the same place to buy the thing.:downs:Quote:
Originally Posted by Freelancer
Damnit, I built my pc, and my graphics card doesnt work. The fan doesnt spin around and I get no output onto the screen.
Its a XFX GTX 260 (core edition), my power supply is 600W ocz xstream, it should be compatible with my PSU, Ive connected the 2 6 pin PCI-E power cables onto the graphics card. Yet absolutely nothing.
The mobo I have is the xfx nforce 750i, it has a debug LED at the back, and it displays "FF" when I try to boot, everything seems to work, apart from the bloody graphics card.
Any one got any ideas? I;m gonna ring XFX up tomorrow, but I heard they suck at technical support, my guess is the graphics card is bust.
Massive rep to anyone who helps fix it, I cant afford to be without a decent pc, I have alot of work I need to do over xmas =\
Have you tried onboard video and see if that works? If no on board video a shitty card that you know works?
Uh, no idea if it has on-board video, theres no VGA connector on the back of the motherboard so I assume no on-board.
And no, dont have any other setup I can test it on =\
Plug in your old 7600GT (assuming it's PCIe) and see if you get a signal through it. If you do, then your GPU is DOA and you need to RMA that sucker. There's no reason 600W shouldn't be enough to power it. If you still don't get a signal, then either your PSU or motherboard has had it...or CPU. To see if it's the PSU, use the 7600GT and the old PSU in the new setup and see if it works (assuming that the previous test didn't work).Quote:
Originally Posted by Limited
I really can't help you further maybe someone will pop in who's more tech smart, it'd be real nice if you had another card to test with though.
Just wanna say you should have rolled with XFX ATi. :p
Sadly my other pc is 60 miles away, plus that 7600 is AGP :O
I think it is a PSU issue, on the box it says it needs a minimum of 550W or greater with minimum of 36 amps with 12v.
Recommended is 630W+ for non SLI.
On the PSU box it says max current 36amps, +3.3V at 155W.
Maybe I need a 700W PSU instead?
That should be more than enough to power the GTX260...I honestly think you just got a lemon card. The fact that its fan isn't spinning is what's telling me it's dead. If it were a flaky PSU, chances are you'd be able to power up, and the power will be randomly allocated to system components (i.e. GPU, but not a hard drive, etc.). I had this happen to me once, and those were the symptoms. Couldn't get past POST.
I'd RMA the GPU. ATi for the win; a 5770 or 4890 would probably surpass the GTX260 while granting you a better image anyways.
Nah I want the card, its just bloody annoying it isnt working. Had issues with last build too :(
Do I RMA to XFX (manufacturer) or do I RMA to the company I bought it with, Ebuyer.
To be honest, I have no idea. Not familiar with Ebuyer's policies. I know Newegg generally takes the RMA, but you are in the UK and therefore didn't buy from Newegg.
Contact them and find out.
Most likely going to be dealing with XFX directly for an RMA, at least you should be. If I'm buying Nvidia chips I always buy EVGA because of their superior customer service.
Actually, now that I think about it, since it's XFX, you probably should send it to XFX. They do have the double lifetime warranty, so you should be covered. And if you can, get online somewhere and register your card to guarantee you the coverage.
I've RMAed to XFX before and it takes about 2 weeks. You need to have registered the card on their site beforehand (do this now before you put in a ticket for RMA).
Well just got off the phone with the Ebuyer guy, said that its booting up (hard drives spinning, motherboard giving FF which is good) yet no graphics card output or fans spinning.
He confirmed (looked at my order) that the power supply is sufficient, so he thinks the gfx card is dead. He requested an RMA, so I now have the number, going to spend it off later today (cant right now).
Really wishing I had on-board, least I could start getting Windows 7 installed, actually hoping it is the gfx card that is dead, then I'll get a new working one and it should all work :D
I may be able to put my sisters old crappy PCI video card in :O Its like, 2000, ancient, doubt it will work.
Edit: Damnit, just spent 30 mins to get in the attic and find my sisters old pc, turns out her gfx card is AGP, GAH, cant use it :(
I'm having problems with my computer as well. First I thought it was the graphics, then the RAM, now the CPU/mobo. It won't even boot most of the time (nothing on the screen) so it's hard to figure out what's wrong...
I've swapped the graphics card and it still won't boot, still nothing showing up on the screen. I'm going to try clearing the CMOS/BIOS, putting only the essentials in, and playing around with it more later today.
Thoughts??
Sounds like a dead power supply, since that's what was happening when my 420W kicked the bucket.
Well CPU and RAM rarely die on you. Most of the time it's the capacitors that just go boom because of their bad quality.
Well, on the CPU there are two tiny dents in the metal where the lever thingy comes down to hold it tightly in place. I've re-seated it twice now, and I'm pretty sure it's in there correctly (lol). On my last two computers I've never taken the CPU out so I don't know if this is normal or not. I think the RAM is okay, because any number of sticks in any configuration of slots doesn't seem to help.
I think the power supply is okay (and it is high quality), because things seem to be happening on the motherboard, it just gets stuck at random postcodes (4F, 3B, 51, etc). Also the temp card is tiny and doesn't require any extra power. Sometimes it will get into Windows and then I will get vertical color bars on the screen and it's just dead (pic later, but I haven't been able to verify this result with the temp card, haven't gotten past BIOS with it). Also, it would become more and more frequent (card heating up??).
The no screen image made my suspect the video card, but swapping hasn't helped so far so I'm really stuck.
Video card rarely dies on you as well. It seriously sounds like your mobo has some problems.Quote:
Originally Posted by TheGhost
£21 ($34) to send that package, all be it next day delivery, signed for and insured.
Damn well better be an issue with the graphics card, if its not faulty then I have a huge issue, because I don't know what else it is, power supply or mobo, surely if power supply isnt enough, it will work for a bit, then demanding tasks it will stop. (Considering I'm 30 watts under the recommended, and thats like full load).
RIP Ghostie's computer machine~
My secondary display has been acting up the past few days now. Doesn't display anything but a white screen now and needs to be turned on and off a few times :smith:
get on aim
It's worth remembering that the 12v rail needs to supply enough current to power the system, and if the amperage rating is too low, it doesn't matter if the PSU has a high enough wattage rating. This GTS 250 of mine recommended a 450W power supply that could supply 25 amps on the 12v rail, and my 550W (more than enough wattage, right?) only rated its 12v rail at 18A. That's why I overcompensated and bought a 700W PSU so that I never run into that sort of problem again. I think your 600W OCZ should have two 25A 12v rails, so it shouldn't be a problem?Quote:
Originally Posted by Limited
So, say they test the graphics card and it works fine, what should I do next? I'll probably ring up tech support and see what they can do, then again, thats same people that told me PSU is adequate for it.
Buy a 700W PSU? Noting, I'd have to send the 600W back, again more delivery charges =\
Varmint, I gotta be honest I dont know any thing about PSU's, I have no idea how to tell :P Heres the webpage for the current PSU I got.
http://www.ebuyer.com/product/127861...oduct_overview
Definitely sounds like a flaky PSU. Just because it's from a quality brand doesn't rule out the possibility of a lemon...Quote:
Originally Posted by TheGhost
I had random post codes on my motherboard when the PSU was dying; take those post codes to mean that certain parts are not getting powered and are thus reading as failed.
If it isn't the PSU, then it is probably the motherboard. There are only two ways I can conceive that you would damage a CPU under normal installation and operation: excessive heat and bent pins. You were grounded when you put the computer together, right?
Is there a way I can check the PSU with like a multimeter or something?
So also, now I am just running with the CPU and one stick of RAM, and it barely does anything. This kind of boils it down to PSU, mobo, or CPU.
PSU I could go to Best Buy, get a shitty one, and return it before 30 days (this is exactly what I'm doing with the GFX card). If it's the CPU or mobo, I'm gonna have a bad time.
I'll admit, I don't know a lot about the internals of power supplies; someone else on here probably knows more. However, I did look up some information.Quote:
Originally Posted by Limited
http://media.bestofmicro.com/H/G/110...l/image034.png
Their test system with a GTX260 shows as using 270 watts of power under load. As long as the 12v rails can handle what the card's drawing, I don't think there should be a problem...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817341010
Is this your power supply, then? OCZ StealthXStream 600W SLI-ready power supply? Here it lists it as having four 12v rails each capable of 18A (64A total). I suspect that's more than enough to run a GTX 260; BFG Tech's factory overclocked GTX 260 reads "525W PCI Express®-compliant system power supply with a combined 12V current rating of 38A or more (Minimum system power requirement based on a PC configured with an Intel Core®2 Extreme QX9650 processor)"
Based on that, I'd say your power supply isn't the problem, but I'm not a final authority by any means.
EDIT: Didn't see that maximum 36A, 155W you say was on the PSU's box. Probably means the GPU runs off of two of the 12V rails. However, that also would mean there are two other 12V rails for running everything else, so the processor and hard drives have their own set of rails to run off of. Sorry to say I can't really give a definitive answer.
Thanks for the enlightenment Varmint :D Also yes thats the exact power supply I have.
I have no idea what rails are, I assume "lines" of power?
Edit: Aha! http://www.computerplanet.co.uk/cust...4x2/step1.html
Under power supply section, it has this:
For the latest graphics cards the minimum requirements are as follows:
ATI 4850/4870 - OCZ 500W
ATI 4890 - OCZ 600W
ATI 4870 X2 - OCZ 700W
NVIDIA GTS 250 - OCZ 500W
NVIDIA GTX 260 - OCZ 600W
NVIDIA GTX 275 - OCZ 600W
NVIDIA GTX 280/285 - OCZ 700W
NVIDIA GTX 295 - OCZ 700W
SLI
2 x NVIDIA GTX 260 - 850W
3 x NVIDIA GTX 260/280 - 1250W
Not sure how reliable this site is, but it means minimum, therefore it should run (boot up, genreic Windows usage), it could hick up on demanding stuff though
This is what Limited has (Ebuyer doesn't give enough detail in the specs). So yeah, it should be more than capable of handling his system unless it's flaky.
I still think it's the GPU. Can you give us some POST codes?
Post code on the DEBUG LED from mobo is "FF", meaning fully functional or something about passing first few tests. I do hear the hard drives spinning up, nothing happens as I have no OS installed. So I believe its booting up okay, cant be sure because no output to screen.
Hopefully in a few days company will send me a new one, and tell me old one was broken, if it worked then crap I'm stuck.
Under returns, it says "direct replacement", do you think they will just swap old one without testing? Even though there policy is to test them.
If you are getting FF, then that pretty much guarantees that it's the GPU. My motherboard says FF under normal operation, and also has indicator LEDs next to each critical part (CPU, Hard Drives, Chipset, and RAM). If you have such LEDs, look at those and if they are all working, then your GPU is fried.
No idea to be honest, when I turn it on I see a few red lights and a few purple lights in the case. I hope it is GPU, as its getting replaced if it is.
Just hope they send replacement before Christmas, if its after then me coming home has been pointless, a side from seeing family Christmas is work work work time :(
Welp, rush delivery works. I live about three quarters of an England away from the nearest Newegg stockhouse, and it takes two days for me to receive items. Where's this Ebuyer located?
I sent it to like DN post code, possibly Doncaster, so like, middle of England. I sent it next day delivery recorded, bloody royal mail charged me £21 :(.
Ebuyer has a great history of deliveries, people have ordered things like 7:30pm, and got it 11am next day.
Then you should be good for Christmas! :)
Ah so your where i got the video card in the post from then:realsmug:Quote:
Originally Posted by Limited
So it's either CPU or mobo. Literally every other part has been verified to work (unless all 4 of my RAM sticks are all dead).
I'm tempted to pull a bait and switch with Best Buy... they carry my motherboard and CPU and have a pretty loose return policy from what I understand.
Thoughts?
I'm looking for a new gaming mouse; the G9 looks to be out of my price range unless it has some super-useful features, and the G7 doesn't seem to be stocked in my retailers, so I'm looking at the MX518. Does anyone here have experience with this mouse or the G9?
I'd be using it quite a lot and from the smooth design of it, it looks like my fingers might slip off the MX518's buttons (I love the curved-up edges of my current Krait). There's also a concern that I'd accidentally press the side function buttons accidentally. Have any of you MX518 owners experienced either of these?
G500
The MX518 is still the best mouse you can get so go for it. The side buttons own and are good binds for vent or what have you.
G500 > MX518
just sayin
(Note: I own both)
make an mp3 of you reading this post please.Quote:
Originally Posted by InnerGoat
you are correctQuote:
Originally Posted by TheGhost
goat you are incorrect
this is solid fact
MX518 is the best if you disagree you are trolling and trolling is a violation of teh AUP!
bumpQuote:
Originally Posted by TheGhost
you are obviously some scrub gamer haruhiQuote:
Originally Posted by InnerGoat
RMA the motherboard and wait it out to see if that's the issue. Motherboard has more individual parts that can fail than the CPU.Quote:
Originally Posted by TheGhost
Same here, used my MX518 all the time up until last year when a friend spilled pop on it... Now the right click has some seriously fucked up resistance too it. Used a G500 for a brief time while reviewing it for a school project (long story), use an MX Revolution now... MX Revolution is a great mouse but it suffers from the same problems as all other wireless devices, poor reception and such. I'm hopefully getting a G9 or G9x for Christmas, I'll let you know what it's like then if you still want.Quote:
Originally Posted by TheGhost
The RAZER Mamba has fantastic wireless reception. It ain't the most comfortable mouse ever made, but it looks good and performs well. You can use it wired, if you so desire, to boot.
Yeah, but it's hands down the most expensive gaming mouse out there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Warsaw