Airsoft Thread

[Cortexian]

Oh, I can count on you guys for walking me through any internal tinkering I might do in the future, ja?

I'll do what I can to help you out, but I'm no AEG "gunsmith", LOL.

It's not, actually. They are related. The position of the safety is related to the position of the tapet plate, which is also related to the position of the piston. When your spring is partially compressed like that, you get a trigger lockup. Why else do you think just flipping your safety to automatic fire works at all? It's not a mechanical issue with the safety, it's an electrical issue with your motor not getting enough juice to keep going. I daresay I do know what I'm talking about here.

No... There's still a separate issues with a few models of AEG where the mechanical safety doesn't disengage all the way unless you push the selector a little past semi-auto. It's a completely different issue than having a compressed spring and a motor or battery that isn't powerful enough to compete the cycle on semi. This usually happens on ambi-safety AEG's that have a gear-axel moving across to the other selector as well, specifically when this axel isn't perfectly aligned with the selector gear on either side. This off-sets the selectors a small amount and "semi-auto" is still actually "safe" until you push it past a little ways. It's fixable if you tinker with the positioning and such, my G36K no longer does it.

So it makes sense how when I first go semi, I can fire a few shots before it does lock up? And I honestly feel like I get a better response from depressing the trigger all the way for each shot(though my tap firing is a lot slower!).

Yea, keep the trigger depressed until the AEG completely "cycles" each shot and you'll get better results. Sounds like you're getting the electrical issue Warsaw was referring to. Are you using an 8.4v battery by chance? A 9.6v will greatly improve the "snappiness" of your semi-auto fire.

[RedBaron]

I am using the stock 8.4v mini. A lot of people complain about stock batteries, but I think as long as I don't overcharge it, it'll work fine. I will still get a spare battery, but I've heard that 9.6v will wear my internals faster?

[Warsaw]

No... There's still a separate issues with a few models of AEG where the mechanical safety doesn't disengage all the way unless you push the selector a little past semi-auto. It's a completely different issue than having a compressed spring and a motor or battery that isn't powerful enough to compete the cycle on semi. This usually happens on ambi-safety AEG's that have a gear-axel moving across to the other selector as well, specifically when this axel isn't perfectly aligned with the selector gear on either side. This off-sets the selectors a small amount and "semi-auto" is still actually "safe" until you push it past a little ways. It's fixable if you tinker with the positioning and such, my G36K no longer does it.

That's a different issue. That sounds like the teeth weren't lined up properly on the safetyy. That will lock up period, not letting you fire it at all unless you do as you said. However, I took what he said to mean he could fire a few shots while on semi, and then it would eventually lock up. The only fix for that is to flip it to auto, fire a burst, then switch back to semi (and voila, it works again), and that is an electrical issue.

@DELTA_011692: The higher your battery voltage, the faster the motor will turn. That means you get a higher rate of fire. It doesn't decrease the amount of wear you can put on the gears, but it does make each gear achieve its lifespan faster because they are all moving faster. You'll need a higher voltage if you plan on shooting in the 400+ fps range or if you want a zipper gun (I hate these). I've had no problems running a 9.6v in my gun, both when it was stock and after upgrades.

[Cortexian]

Stock CA G36K, tightbore, 8.4v 1600 mAH small battery:


Same gun, tightbore, 9.6v 4500 mAH large battery (skip to 02:50):


That should give you an idea of how large a change a battery can give your gun

[Pyong Kawaguchi]

I got my AU-1G today (AUG)
Here's a picture:

[Pyong Kawaguchi]

So, an update on my AUG:

Can test: from about 2 feet it made a large entrance hole, and a small exit hole.
Its fairly accurate, the stock sights are fairly cheap.
The plastic is of good quality, and appears to be very sturdy.
The mag is not loose, as you can hold it by the mag (probably not reccomended)
The charging handle may need a little bit of silicon spray to lube it up, or else it may get stuck.
It uses a two-step trigger and it works well for me.
It has a very high ROF with stock battery (8.4v mini)
The upper reciever is metal.
The main body is ABS plastic, same with the magazine.
It appears to have long range.
It is easy and simple to take the gun apart. (I've just seperated the barrel from the upper reciever, and the upper reciever from the main body)
It has a 330rd high cap magazine.
It comes with battery, charger, cheap bbs, gun, and cleaning rod.
Iirc it uses a Version 3 gearbox with two step trigger assy.
Any questions?

[Warsaw]

Range means nothing if they can't feel it. Upgrade the SoB.

[Cortexian]

Range means nothing if they can't feel it. Upgrade the SoB.

That's what .40g aluminum coated BB's are for silly!

Sounds like it's a good rifle there Pyong, you should run a full poor-mans chrono and check the FPS. Make sure to use legitimate Coke-a-cola cans that are unblemished, other cans and damaged Coke cans give inaccurate results. So buy yourself a 6 pack and drink while you test!


I'm currently in negotiations to trade my dead Classic Army G36K for a WE SCAR GBBR. I'll let you guys know how this goes, for now we're haggling over the worth of my "parts gun".

[Pyong Kawaguchi]

Buying a new jtag today probably

but I'm also selling some of my old airsoft stuff.

Quote from my craigslist ad:

For sale I have various airsoft guns.
Working Steel Dboy AK74u (comes with battery, charger and magazine) 110$
Cyma Ak 47 Beta Spetsnaz Gun (Works, good condition, comes with cheap battery and charger, no mag) 30$
Broken Version 3 AK Gearbox (needs new motor) 10$
Working JG Sig 552 (Gun only, no magazine, battery cover, or battery, or charger.) 45$
And I have various working gas pistols with magazines. 30$ each.
Thanks for looking.

[Cortexian]

If this were a Canadian airsoft community site, the appropriate comment for that post would have been:

"18+ buy/sell only, reported your account to be banned for selling to minors. Move this to the buy/sell forums ASAP!"

I actually had that exact thing typed out, then I realized this was Modacity and quoted it down...

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I just bought a pair of these, legit from Crye Precision:

Got the knee pads as well of course... Though the fact that they're sold separately for THIRTY EIGHT US DOLLARS is friggan ridiculous. I guess that's what happens when you buy things in the US, where people actually want to get paid for making things instead of oversea sweatshops...

Will be great for airsoft, and will be doubly as awesome for hunting. Picked my dad up some of their Field Pants AC while I was at it, since he's an oldfag and wanted some knee pads but not the extreme hardcore ones like mine.

Edit: Oh I got them in Sand/Khaki instead of Multicam because Multicam has white in it. White shows up like mad at our indoor arena due to the black-lights everywhere. If I come across some extra cash in the future I'll get a set in Multicam as well for hunting and outdoor airsoft.